2d drawing to 3d printing
Many people, who begin with 3D printing, frequently limit themselves to printing models downloaded from PrusaPrinters and other sites like Thingiverse or MyMiniFactory. There is zilch wrong with that, of course, but the 3D printing options are manner wider than that. One time you get into the secrets of creating your ain models, yous will discover a whole new globe.
Before y'all start exploring avant-garde 3D modeling programs (we recommend, for example, Fusion 360, Blender, SketchUp or Rhinoceros), you can as well enjoy making your ain models in an easier way. How about printing a pendant using your favorite sports squad's logo, print an image drawn by your child or turning your family photo into a lithophane? In that location are several means to accomplish these job and I will show you two basic ones. Both utilize applications that are free to utilise.
3D model from a 2nd image
Not every picture makes a dainty 3D print, simply if you choose well, you can be pleasantly surprised. In general, the less complex a picture is, the better is the resulting model. It is important that the source paradigm has conspicuously separated colors, and that the transition betwixt them is clearly defined and not gradual. If the prototype contains tiny details, you tin can improve the impress quality by using a smaller 0.25mm bore nozzle. Yous can read everything about nozzles with a dissimilar bore in our previous article. Here are two examples of images we've been converting for 3D printing.
Showtime, we browse the epitome. I approximate there is no need to mention that higher DPI is better. For all-time results, "clean" the scanned image in any graphics editor – focus on cleaning the backgrounds and achieving clear colour transitions. And then just open the Selva tool in the browser.
- In the program window, click Upload image and upload the image you lot want to work with.
- The image has been uploaded, and yous can alter it using the two sliders called Threshold (Edit Layer Width) and Top. Tweak these values to achieve the desired look.
- Then salve the paradigm, and so it can be further edited, using the Download a Standard Quality STL for free push button. Of form, you can also apply the paid version and download a file in "Loftier quality" at $ ii.5. The paid version allows you to export the file at a higher resolution – this can be useful if your pic has fine lines. However, for the vast majority of objects, standard quality will be sufficient.
We will open up the saved file in Tinkercad online app. You also demand to sign up for free here in order to edit the objects.
- After logging into Tinkercad, nosotros can start uploading a file by creating a new projection, using the "Create new design"
- So, on the desktop, use the "Import" push to select the file to exist edited and confirm the pick by pressing "Cull file".
- One time we have the file you selected, we bank check its size. Size can exist further tweaked by changing the number in the "Scale" field. We volition modify the scale to 500 for our logo.
- Once yous have an object imported, you tin immediately consign it as a .stl file and then print it, or use the various Tinkercad features to modify the file to meet your requirements. For example, we added a pad under the object and a loop to create a key tag.
- To make a keychain from a logo, add objects from the correct side carte du jour, specifically the square and the hoop, to the workspace. These objects can be edited using white markings on the edges. Nosotros stretched the square across the logo area and shrunk information technology to make the logo visible. Then we created the cardinal strap by moving a resized hoop to the pendant then that but the half of the object is visible.
- Then, we converted the modified file into the .stl format ready for slicing using the "Export" button.
The model is almost ready for 3D printing. We will open this file in PrusaSlicer and so just suit its size (or add a skirt and back up if needed). You can also try to use Colorprint to prepare multi-color object. And then you tin can finally print the model.
Photos and lithophane
Another possibility to convert 2D images to 3D printing is lithophane, sometimes chosen 3D Photo Impress. Lithophane (from French: lithophanie) is an etched or shaped work of art made of a very thin translucent porcelain. The bodily image can only be seen clearly when it is illuminated by a backlight. Lithophane represents a three-dimensional image – completely unlike from two-dimensional engravings and daguerreotypes that are "flat". Images change their characteristics depending on the low-cal source behind them.
What do you demand to do? Just grab a photo or any other motion-picture show! Knowledge of 3D software is not needed at all. Creating an STL file tin can exist done with an online app available at http://3dp.rocks/lithophane/.
- In the meridian bar, click on "Images" and elevate the selected photo into the window. We recommend uploading photos with a lower resolution – for example, 500×500. This resolution is sufficient to create a practiced looking model and the calculation takes much less time.
- After uploading an image, a 3D model should be automatically generated. The last button in the top bar is "Settings" where you can alter the model generation settings. To explain the very basics: Under "Settings / Image settings", is the source paradigm editing. The showtime slider is too the most important ane – Positive Image / Negative Image. Generating a 3D model is based on the principle that each signal/pixel is assigned a superlative coordinate according to the blackness colour amount (black color = 0, white color = 1). In gild for the resulting 3D photo to lucifer the original template, we demand to convert the image into a negative – you can do that with the first slider.
- We also recommend setting "THINNEST LAYER (MM)" in "Settings / Model settings" to 0.4. Get out the other settings untouched.
- As before long equally we have this model set, download it using the "Download" button.
- Then, open the file in PrusaSlicer. After opening the file, we recommend switching the layer height to 0.10mm. From our experience, information technology is better to print the object flat on the print bed to prevent whatever kind of wobble that could happen if you printed the object vertically. Yous can likewise utilize a 0.05mm setting with a 0.25mm nozzle to achieve the best possible print quality.
- Then get to "Print settings" and set "Layers and perimeters" values every bit follows: Perimeters: 1; Solid layers Top: one; Solid layers Bottom: 1
- Next pace is going to "Infill" where we set the value to 95% Rectilinear
- It is important not to resize the object in PrusaSlicer considering that would increase its meridian on the Z axis and the flow of light through the image would no longer work. Y'all tin can merely change the Y and X axes.
This is our tried and tested setup. For the best print results, we recommend selecting a lite material color, ideally white, creamy simply too silver or fifty-fifty majestic. However, the quality of the printed object will always depend on the filament manufacturer, since not every filament volition exist translucent and not every filament will requite you the perfect lithophane effect, but feel free to experiment… 🙂
If y'all already have feel with lithophane printing, you lot can improve information technology further past coloring information technology. But add colors (e.g. with common markers) to the back and the moving picture will shine with nice new colors. We are working on a separate article virtually this topic, so stay tuned. 🙂
Source: https://blog.prusaprinters.org/from-2d-to-3d-how-to-turn-a-picture-or-a-photo-into-a-3d-model_8882/
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